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CMC / Denver Group

TechnicalClimbingSchoolInstructors

Condition Report

After the recent snows, the trail is likely to be icy and snow-packed. Micro-spikes or other traction devices are recommended. The trail is likely to be muddy on the way down so a change of shoes is recommended.

Field Day

There is only one Workshop Field Day for now. Attendance at this field day is not mandatory but it will help you get up to speed with the goals and methods of the Technical Climbing School. If you do not attend this field day, it is recommended that you take your cue from another instructor who has attended the Workshop field Day.

Bring all your normal climbing gear that you used in BMS: helmet, harness, belay device with locker, safety leash with locker, autoblock with locker, prusik cords, couple of runners, extra lockers. You won't need your climbing shoes. Please be prapared to carry up a rope and anchor material.

Let's meet Saturday at about 7:45am with the goal of pulling out of the lot right at 8:00am. Meet at the south end of the TW Telecom parking lot. Address is 10475 Park Meadows Dr in Lone Tree. The parking lot is at the northwest intersection of I-25 and Lincoln.
Here is a map:
TW Telecom Parking

We will be pulling out of the lot at 8:00am sharp. If you are going to be late, call Bill Haneghan at 303-957-7409 and someone will wait for you. If we do not hear from you by 8:00am we will assume you are not coming or will make your own way.

We are going to Castlewood Canyon State Park. Parking is limited so we want to carpool into as few cars as possible. Daily pass is $7.00 so consider driving if you have a State Parks pass. If not, please bring singles and a pen to fill out the permit. When you arrive at the meeting spot, leave your trunk/hatch open if you can drive and call out that you can take a passenger. If you need a ride, look for someone calling for passengers. Don't wait for someone to assign drivers. If you still cannot find a ride, find Bill; he will be wearing a green climbing helmet and asking if everyone has a ride. It could be cold to start out; but on a sunny day it feels warmer than the temperature indicates. So bring layers. There could still be some snow on the ground so wear waterproof boots. Not a bad idea to wear full boots anyway because there can be rattlesnakes. Full cars can head straight to the park if you know where to go. If you don't know where to go, caravan to the King Soopers:

If you prefer to meet further South, meet at the King Soopers in Castle Rock, but it's the one at 750 N Ridge Rd. Meet there at 8:15 with a goal of heading out at 8:30. See above for carpooling procedures. Bill will stop by to be sure everyone has a ride and knows where to go.

If you want to go directly to the Park, feel free to do so if you have a full car. If I do not hear from you at TW or King Soopers I will assume that is what you are doing. We aim to be at the Park about 8:45am.

Best is to prepare for a full day. But, if everything goes well, we usually wind up by 2:00pm. And we usually like to stop by a biker bar in Franktown, The Stagecoach Saloon for a sandwich and drink.
Here is a map to the Castlewood area:
Castlewood Area Map
Past the fee station you pass a lot on the left, and further up are a pair of small lots on the right and left.

Since we now offer modules we are approaching this day in a slightly different manner. Instead of working by groups, we will be working by skills. There will be eight stations where a senior instructor will be teaching a skill. The session at each '60' station will begin at the top of the hour and the session at each '30' station will begin at the top and bottom of the hour. You will rotate from station to station. So pick the stations you are most interested in. After noon, we will probably shorten the sessions so you can squeeze more in if you like. We are going with 'limited chaos' because we really don't have everyone locked into attendance.

Stations

Basic Mountaineering

Intermediate Mountaineering

Other

Station Details

Anchors
Everyone should stop by here. Good tips on how to rig an AMGA-quality anchor.

Escaping the Belay
Common mistakes: trying to hold the climber's weight (no A-B-C), tying the new Master Point in front of the hip, using too long a Prusik

Ascending
Common mistakes: foot and waist pursiks not tailored to body size, pulling up with arms instead of standing up

Passing the Knot
Common mistakes: not minding the newly positioned rappel device (allowing it to walk down)

Rappelling
Common mistakes: not adjusting Autoblock to correct length, not threading the rappel device so rope is oriented vertically, not fully testing the system, not removing the safety leash, not calling rappel signal, not calling off rappel signal

Belaying
Common mistakes: not double checking partner, not using climbing signals, not using names, not threading belay device so rope is oriented vertically, not taking in small enough amount of slack to allow easy reach Under, not A-B-C or not maintaining stable stance with one foot forward, not testing weight of climber if called for

Navigation
Common mistakes: not familiar with map symbols and lines, not correlating map to terrain, not drawing North-South lines on map, not setting declination correctly, not switching from a slow travel method to a faster when following a bearing

Knots
Common mistakes: too big a loop on Fig8, undressed Fig8, too long/short a tail on Fig8, undressed Double Fisherman (missing barrel and double X configuration), tightness on Flat Overhand not worked thoroughly in each strand, stopper knots not cinched down on primary knot, too slow to tie